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Finally off shift…
Puffer Dan in the captain’s chair
I napped. When I woke up the sails were slack again, and we were only two miles out. I grabbed the wheel from Puffer Dan, and within an hour we had dropped the anchor in a sandy patch over a reef in crystal clear water. That’s not a bad way to start one’s day.
I jumped in to check the anchor. Or really to check the reef, but I used the correct excuse. The reef right underneath the boat was vibrant. No 50 pound Black Grouper came up to greet me, but there were fish and there was life and the coral wasn’t dead. The anchor was fine, but I knew that before I got in.
I kicked around a bit, exploring our new parking spot – then Dan jumped in and I went below to grab a few hours of shut-eye. Beautiful place or not, nobody likes a grumpy captain. As an aside – Dan took alot of selfies on this trip. I think that’s funny, so I’m going to use his selfies to illustrate. I hope you enjoy Dan’s obsession with selfies as much as I do.
Puffer Dan relaxing after his brief stint as captain
By that evening, I was rested again and Dan and I decided to do some exploring while Lauren started cooking. We found some interesting things, and went tried to find the end of a couple of underwater ledges – looking for places fish might be hanging. We explored some mangrove swamps, and found a hostel.
Exploring San Bernardos, Colombia
Eventually we headed back, ate dinner, drank some rum, and went to bed.
Puffer Dan and I were interested in spearfishing. The catch, here, is that it’s the Caribe. The Caribe just isn’t a spot for huge fish, though sometimes you bump into them by chance. There’s another catch at places like this – the locals really hammer the fish population. They eat anything that moves underwater. But we were willing to work for it, and we hoped that would make up for any inherent lacking of fish.
We went out that morning. By 11AM we were done. Very few fish, lots of work. Plenty to see – just nothing worth shooting. Certainly nothing worth writing about. A quick nap and then we headed to find a local that a buddy told us about. We needed a guide – local knowledge is always the key to good fishing, but it’s not something people share openly.
We found our guide, he wanted to go out the next morning. We agreed, 8AM was kickoff. Then we went over to the hostel. The hostel is in the middle of the water, and is run by three cool guys – who all enjoy their party. One is Colombian, one is from Kentucky, the final is from Sweden (I think?). Anyways, we were warmly welcomed.
The second story of said hostel…
Puffer Dan and Captain Ron at the hostel
The good life
We drank there and I started a conversation with a guy working on his outboard motor. We hit it off, he told me there was good fishing in the area – and suggested we go into the mangroves at night looking for pargo (snapper). I thought that sounded interesting, so we planned on it. I felt alright about night diving in a mangrove swamp with spearguns mostly because our guide’s name was Jesus.
Dan, Lauren and I went back to the boat and had a snack, then we returned for our night dive. Naturally our guide, Jesus, was a little late. We got out there eventually, jumped in, and started kicking around looking for edible fish. I ran into a couple of small barracuda, then a couple of small snapper. Then a couple of large pufferfish. Then I heard Dan shoot.
My involuntary reaction was to begin shaking my head, underwater – though nobody was there to see it. I had a feeling Dan got excited and pulled the trigger on that puffer. I wasn’t wrong. When I got over there I shined the light on Dan’s quarry – said a few choice words to Dan and then left him to figure out his mess.
I can see where some people might think I should have helped Dan get his shit together. After all it was very dark, it was unfamiliar territory, I have a lot more experience in the water, etc. But I’ve been sailing/diving/spearfishing with Dan in more than one country – and in those countries he fails in fish ID. So much so that his nickname when we were in the Bahamas was Puffer Dan. It seems that the oversize heads of pufferfish are a very attractive target to Dan. Whatever country or ocean he might be in. His nickname became official on this trip.
So I left Dan and kept diving. I scoured the rest of the mangroves, then came back. Naturally Dan was still struggling with his pufferfish. Eventually he got his shit together, and we moved to a different spot. There I jumped in again and got to kicking around. I watched a Tilefish move through my light beam, saw a couple juvenile snapper, and then heard Dan shoot again.
Again, involuntarily, I shook my head and started toward Dan. With very little to show for my diving thus far – I jumped back in the dinghy to find Puffer Dan and see what foolish fish let him close enough. He came up and told me he had no idea what it was, but that it was probably a Mangrove Snapper. Mangrove Snapper is a tasty fish, so I was happy and hopeful. It took Dan 10 minutes to get the fish out of the mangrove roots – and when he did I began yelling at him again. It wasn’t a Mangrove Snapper. It wasn’t any kind of snapper. He’d just put two words together “Mangrove” and “Snapper” because we were in a mangrove swamp and he knew we were looking for snapper. This f*cking guy.
I called our mangrove-night-diving-spearfishing-fail and explained to Dan that he wasn’t allowed to pull the trigger anymore, fairly harshly. What a dummy. To be fair – spearfishing at night in murky water in a mangrove swamp doesn’t make fish-ID easy. And to be fair – I actually enjoyed the dive, it was cool and slightly creepy. Nothing I’d done before, but something I’d do again.
So we dropped off Jesus and headed back to the mothership. We all felt like having Jesus with us on a spearfishing expedition should be better luck.
Before leaving for the mangrove-night-diving-spearfishing-fail, I’d dropped my green LED fish light in the water – as a homing beacon. When we arrived at NOMAD there was a veritable underwater zoo around the light. Several schools of baitfish were visible on the surface, and it got cooler when we got in. I turned on the lights on my arch, and with those lights and the underwater LED green light (and our dive lights) – we were able to see quite a bit under the boat. There were schools of baitfish and squid, and if you were sneaky – you could find the predator fish on the edge of the light. Nothing huge though.
I crept around the edge of the light for a half hour, where I found a medium-sized Barracuda patrolling. We had exactly zero fish onboard, so he was fair game. I dropped to the bottom, turned off my light, and waited a bit – then turned the dive light back on and sure enough, he’d come back toward me to investigate. For his curiosity I gave him a piece of steel, and then the game was on. He went apeshit.
Barracuda aren’t really “dangerous.” It’s just that they have lots of teeth and get very agitated when you shoot them. I learned that night how tough it can be to keep a light on an agitated Barracuda while pulling it in and not getting tangled in your line and not getting bitten. I did, though, eventually get him in and put him away. I dove a bit more – looking for lobster and crab and octopus. I found none, so I cleaned our fish and cooked our first fish dinner of the trip – at 11PM.
Then we crashed. We had another spearfishing trip, starting at 8AM the next day.
Colombia (Caribe) overview
Here’s a closer view of Baru and the Rosarios….
Isla Baru and Rosarios, Colombia
And, finally, here are the Bernardos. There are some rumors of fish at the Bernardos. I hope they’re true.
San Bernardos, Colombia
Eventually we packed it up in Baru and headed back to CTG. We decided to leave fairly early, though it was only 20 miles. Of course, the wind and wave predictions were completely off. When we made it out of the bay, we were forcefed 15 knots of wind on the nose, and 8 foot slop – with short period waves (also on the nose).
Lauren made pancakes that morning, and ate way too many – a rookie move when you’re heading out into the ocean. Fifteen minutes into the trip back to CTG she wasn’t feeling well. These are learning experiences, she was learning. The trip should have taken three hours or so, but it took four – with both engines wide open. I wanted to push the engines a bit anyways – it’s good to run them hot a little every so often.
I didn’t mind the ride at all, given some of the crap I’ve pushed through – this was gradeschool recess. Hardly a test. But we did have some waves break over the bow, and I didn’t have a chance to raise a sail until we’d made the turn back into the bay in CTG. Once back, I found a spot close to Club Nautico and dropped the anchor. One of my neighbors came out on deck to yell at me and tell me that Club Nautico would tell me I was too close – which was crap. Club Nautico only cares that you pay an outrageous fee to dock your dinghy there (I’ve managed to skirt around that too). What my neighbor was really trying to do, was to get me to move – but he was going about it in a particularly chickenshit fashion, by trying to make it seem like someone else cared where I anchored. I’m long past letting crazy old sailors tell me where to drop my anchor, I smiled, waved and yelled back “We’ll see.” He wasn’t happy having his bluff called, but I cracked an anchor beer and forgot about him.
Then I got sick again. Same thing, but not as bad. Fever, chills, aches, and a really upset stomach. A couple of days after that I was alright again, but now the boat projects were pressing. My nice clean engine rooms now had saildrive oil in them and a small amount of engine oil in them… Honestly, most sailors would just wipe it up (or not) and carry on. a little oil in the engine room is par for the course. I couldn’t handle the oil in there though, so I cleaned it all up, pulled the offending parts and began replacing O-rings and oil-seals.
About 9PM the other night we were greeted with a little Cullo de Pollo (a squall). Nothing too crazy on this one, but we saw about 30 knots of sustained wind, some gusts higher, and a bit of rain. We’d dropped my oversize anchor and more than enough chain in the right position, so we held. But other boats were dragging anchor all around us. I admit to smiling a little as I watched the drama unfold – my neighbor who was unhappy with my anchoring earlier, now realized that he had many more problems as other boats (but not NOMAD) were dragging anchor towards him. I just had a drink and sat in the captain’s chair and watched until I got bored. Then The Sopranos called me and I went below to answer that call.
I have a buddy, his name is Dan. He decided to come visit. He likes to spearfish. He’s a good friend, one of my best – so I’m allowed to say mean things about him. Males of our species are funny that way, we usually say mean stuff to each other as a way of showing how much we care. Anyways.
Dan showed up yesterday. I was running around organizing bottom cleaning, saltwater pump rebuilds, and finding O-rings when he showed up. I grabbed him at the dinghy dock and took him and his plethora of boat-parts out to NOMAD. Whenever someone comes and visits – it’s a boat-Christmas. He changed clothes and I took him on a mini boat-parts-search through Cartagena. Then we grabbed food. After lunch, Dan promptly fell asleep in the middle of our workspace and didn’t move until dark. Very considerate.
After Dan’s all-day nap, in the middle of my workspace, as I slaved and sweated and bled and cursed to get the boat ready to go, so Dan could get some spearfishing in while he was here – we went into town. For some reason Dan had a ton of energy, and I was beat. Lauren had coffee three different times yesterday – so they were chipper. I was looking for a way to get back to the boat and get some sleep. We ate, then grabbed beers and walked and talked and explored a little.
Eventually we headed back to the boat. On the boat, we poured drinks – but I didn’t even socialize. I just took the drink downstairs, finished it, and then fell asleep. A good night’s sleep was needed.
The weather isn’t cooperating right now. I really want to head to the Bernardos, so does Dan. The trip down will be something like 45 miles. No problem. But Dan only has a few days down here, and we have to get back. Sailing on a schedule again…
Right now it looks like I’ll sacrifice a night’s sleep to get NOMAD down to the Bernardos. I actually like sailing at night. It’s nice every once in a while. The plan, right now, is to do all of our last-minute stuff (shopping, water, fuel) today and then organize the boat for a night-exit. We’ll leave about midnight, and head out into the sloppy stuff – hoping to get there just a bit after daylight.
That really isn’t impressive, or worth writing about. The thing that’s going to be interesting is getting back. We’re on a schedule, and that means that if this weather pattern holds (a strong North wind/wave combo) – we’ll be motoring against strong wind and waves on the way back. Not fun and tough on the boat. That means I can only plan on 4 knots, too – which means that trip will take 12 hours on the way back. Lame.
All that said, it feels good to get moving again. If the Bernardos do have fish, we’ll find them – and I’ll finally eat some fresh fish again. Finally… If not, this will just be another boatwork interlude. Either way, we’re moving and we’ll be diving soon.
On that note, it’s likely that I won’t have service there – so there may not be a post for a few days. Stay tuned as I work that out.
The motorsail to Cholon was uneventful. It took a couple of hours, and I played with the sails – but we never really had enough wind. And we were loaded down. That many people – with enough food and water to support them, is quite a bit of weight.
As we pulled into Cholon on Thursday afternoon, the party was already in full swing – though it was going to get much bigger as the weekend progressed. The deeper water, at the entrance, is closer to the boats/tiki huts – so we passed only a couple of feet in front of a bunch of powerboats with Colombian girls dancing on the bows. Though the party wasn’t for us, I couldn’t have asked for a better welcoming committee.
I wasn’t ready to get into full-blown party mode quite yet. So we anchored a mile or so into the bay, but we could still hear girls screaming and music blaring. We had a couple of beers and practiced different ways to jump off the boat. Mani (my Colombian buddy) presented me with a great bottle of Colombian rum, to say thanks for me helping him in the Rosarios – and letting him and the girls jump onboard for the weekend. He teared up a little, then we killed the bottle.
The next morning we saw Kenny’s Formosa (Makai) sail into the bay. He pulled up alongside NOMAD and we had a quick chat as we drank our coffee – me reclining on the back deck of NOMAD, him steering Makai. Then he moved on, anchoring even further from the craziness. Later in the day, we headed over to the party – there we made a few friends and learned how quickly the Colombian guys migrate to blonde girls in bikinis. The girls handled it well, but if I were female – I’d dye my hair a different color rather than put up with the harassment. A couple of times Mani and I had to, politely and with smiles, step in.
Back onboard we continued our own small party until the wee hours of the morning. We all crashed heavily and slept well – a day full of rum in the sun will do that to you. The next day we woke up very early and moved NOMAD into the middle of what would be a giant, rum-fueled, mess of boats and bikinis. We were the first ones there, dropped anchor, dove the anchor, and then proceeded to start our breakfast.
Things picking up…
By 9AM things were picking up. The Colombian powerboats were moving in, all working very hard to play music louder than the others. We just sat on my back deck and watched it happen. By noon things were getting a little nuts, and I had vowed to not have a sip of alcohol before 2PM. I knew the folly of starting early when you’re in the middle of a party like this. So Kenny and I escaped – we went to look for a converted Bertram 31 (converted from inboards to outboards). We both love the Bertram hulls, and we both love when they’ve been converted to outboards – they’re fast, stable, and efficient… We didn’t find the boat.
More people showing up…
When I got back onboard NOMAD it was near lunch. We ate a bite, and then shortly the party really started. We put our music into the mix and soon everyone was dancing with a beer in hand. Boats kept piling in. All day and all night we partied. We were invited on other people’s boats, we made friends, we swam, we danced, and we made a Hell of a day of it. A bunch of fun, with a bunch of people, who know how to party.
Winding down in Cholon
The next day was a little rough. The party had wound down, the only evidence of it was scattered around NOMAD in the form of beer cans, glasses, and sunscreen stains on the decks. But the real kicker is that I’d become horribly ill. Some kind of stomach bug had me and it wasn’t fun. Mani was leaving with the Swedes, and it was all I could do to come upstairs and see them off. My whole body hurt, and I couldn’t keep anything down. Add to that a fever and a hangover the like of which most have never seen… I was hurting.
I spent the day curled up below decks sweating and shivering and trying to keep (at least) water down. Toward the end of the day I gave up and took a couple of drugs – which helped me keep food down and reduced my fever and aches. Of course, that’s when Lauren got sick. This continued for two days. We just laid around and sweated and complained and occasionally we’d hear the other crawl out from their respective cave, grab some water, and head back down. We were a pretty miserable crew, but we managed to move NOMAD out of the center of the party into a more tranquil area of Cholon Bay.
I came to the conclusion that this sickness was some sort of party-karma. Something to punish us for having a better time than everyone else in the world that day. I’m still not feeling 100%, so I can’t say “it was worth it” – but I can say that we had a great time, and it was well deserved.
Now, though, it’s back to reality and boatwork. Let’s see how that feels.
These pictures were actually taken at night. Just the other night. It looks like daylight because there are two LED lightstrips in each engine compartment (they are those glowing strips in the lower pics) that light up the engine rooms very well. That’s a big deal when you’re rocking and rolling at night and trying to tighten an alternator belt…
Lagoon 380 Engine Room LED lighting
Modern cruising boats have a remarkable amount of electronic gadgets onboard. It could certainly be argued that there are too many. You need pumps, and alarms and lights and navigation equipment. There’s no easy way around it – you’ll want/need most of these things, and if they’re onboard, they better work. You can’t afford to have a bilge pump not working if you’re holed – for an extreme example. And your autopilot, GPS, wind and depth are pretty important too. Don’t forget your radar, your VHF and the host of other electric nonsense. It’s staggering, really.
Here’s what I’ve done so far:
- wired in four additional 1100 GPH automatic bilge pumps (two in the engine rooms, one in each hull). If holed, I need to be able to make it to somewhere safe, and have at least one bilge pump in all but the front crash lockers.
- wired in two LED worklights over the dingy davits (handy at night when you’re working/drinking/cooking/cleaning fish on the back deck)
- replaced and rewired my main A/C electrical panel
- replaced and rewired my main D/C electrical panel
- rewired all of the major systems (with the correct wiring)
- replaced all navigation lights
Left to do:
- add LED’s to cabinets
- fix remote windlass switch
- fix wind gauge
- wire in two 75W solar panels, one on the outside of each hull (total solar 710W)
- wire in a saltwater washdown pump
- wire in an LED spreader light
- decide on radar (this is an expensive and tough decision)
Here’s a picture of the old AC/DC panel.
Old Panel – Lagoon 380
Here is a pic of the new panels, the additional bilge pump switches, and my water-tank gauge. I went with a Paneltronics panel, WEMA gauges, and a pretty standard bilge pump switch from Rule.
New A/C D/C Panel, bilge pump switches, water level gauge
Behind the scenes…
Sails, rigging, etc.
Surprisingly, this is an area that I haven’t had to pay much attention too. There have been a few small things, but overall – my sails and rigging are in good shape. I do sail a fair amount, it’s just that sails aren’t mechanical/electrical and thus aren’t as prone to failure. The real enemy here is saltwater in furling systems/winches and (most importantly) sail degradation by the sun. The next real “investment” here will be a downwind sail – I’m hoping to get into a roller-furling Code Zero style sail that I can leave on my bowsprit semi-permanently. Naturally, those are very expensive. Same story, different day I reckon.
- mainsail luff repair
- minor gennaker patch
- rigging tensioning
- replacement of lazy jacks, rerunning them to spreaders
- replacing batten cars on sail track
Plumbing is another one of those skills you have to understand to cruise around. Not in great depth, but a little.
Here’s what I’m up to:
- fixing the watermaker (I hope)
- improving the connections, etc of the watermaker
- rewiring the watermaker (maybe this is electrical)
- saltwater foot pump at kitchen sink
- plumb saltwater washdown and run hose to fish-cleaning table
- finish rainwater collection on new bimini (see previous post)
I’ve had to do more than a couple of things that involved welding. So far:
- replaced rear lifelines with stainless tubing to support side-solar panels
- strengthened bimini supports with additional stainless tubing
- increased seating on the back of NOMAD (see previous post)
- strengthen my dinghy-engine lift (it’s an intelligent idea but was built very lightly, which was unintelligent)
- new dinghy davit system (see previous post)
Carpentry, cushions, etc:
- replaced cushions on captain’s chair
- backrest made for new seating
- dinghy cover made
- stackpack alteration
- shade enclosure for rear seating area
- Eisenglass for cockpit (for bad weather)
I need a spot to store tools and other commonly used items without having to tear apart my boat. Especially when things break at night, shorthanded, or when I’m underway. Pulling up cushions with greasy hands is dumb. So I decided to convert my chart table to drawers to solve this issue. So far, so good – though I have to make some minor modifications to get it the way I want it. Check it.
My new tool chest
I needed a couple of new wooden panels created to replace the old ones (around the electrical panels), where there was a hodgepodge of equipment thrown by previous owners.
Finally, for my ground tackle I had to make some decisions. In the South Pacific, there are many anchorages that are very deep. Assuming a 3:1 rode/depth ratio (in 10M of water, I only use 30M chain – the minimum) – if I’m anchoring in 30M of water (common), I need, minimally, 90M of chain… Right now I have 45 meters of 3/8″ chain. The usual advice is to simply increase that 45M to 80-90M.
But that’s not ideal. It puts a crapload of weight in the front of NOMAD. Catamarans are super weight-sensitive. My girl is already on the heavy-side. So that additional weight is a problem. After thinking, talking, researching – I’ve decided that I’m going to run 5/16″ chain (smaller, lighter) in Hi-Test (from ACCO). This chain weighs quite a bit less, and is stronger than the 3/8″ BBB from ACCO. As a plus, it’s also cheaper. Better and cheaper really don’t go hand-in-hand, but in this case I kinda got away with it. I say “kinda” because that change in chain-size means I have to replace my gypsy on my windlass, which costs money.
This is far from an exhaustive list, but it’s a solid start. I would say it represents the majority of the work I need done, but I am remarkably adept at creating more work for myself. I hope to be done in the next month or two, considering what I’m able to actually procure in CTG. From there, I’ll just sail and fix things along the way. This is a couple of months of mostly working, and not mostly playing. A couple of months of living in a boat that’s a project, but is supposed to be mi casa. It’s stressful to live with your boat like this:
Living in a project…
Hopefully this shows the amount of actual work that’s involved in preparing for this kind of voyage. It’s not for the faint of heart or light of wallet. The question – is it all necessary? – is a good one. The thing is – there’s nothing in the South Pacific. Once you start heading West, from Panama – you’re out there on your own. You have to make do with what you have onboard and hope it works. So, getting this work done now – hopefully – will provide me with more cruising and less boatwork in the future. Hopefully.
Upon rereading this, I realized I used the word “hope” more than I usually do. That’s another good indication of what cruising and boat maintenance can be like. Lot’s of “I hope” and “hopefully.” Alas.
Lagoon 380 Dinghy Davit System
Lagoon 380 Dinghy Davit System
Lagoon 380 Dinghy Tiedown
It’s far, far more secure and stable than it’s ever been – though it took some noodling (and I chafed through my dinghy cover in a couple of places as I tried to solve this little riddle). Onward, to the subject at hand.
I get asked this question frequently. It seems that since I’m doing boatwork, improving and repairing systems – people want to know if I still think I got a good deal. To be honest, it’s a dumb question. We’re supposed to be a little more politically correct and never admit that there are dumb questions – but I’ve largely given up on political correctness. The question in question doesn’t seem dumb, if you’re the person asking it. It seems like an intelligent question. Especially for those people out there dreaming about a boat or in the market for one. And I would love to help. If there were a way to give an accurate answer, I’d do it.
The question presupposes some kind of boat-market-omnipotence. I can’t (nor can anyone else) know of every boat for sale in the world. I also can’t tell what every seller would actually take for their boat. I also can’t tell the actual condition of the boat in question, even if there is a very descriptive online ad. Add to that large differences in gear and outfitting on every boat – and you can see why it’s next to impossible to accurately compare these kinds of boats. Especially when you don’t keep track of the market 24/7. The best person to ask would be a boat broker, but they rarely speak plainly about deals – good or bad. I would use a broker again, but relying on them for “good deal / bad deal” isn’t intelligent. And even they wouldn’t know until after they’d purchased the boat and sailed/cruised/repaired it. And by the time they’d done that, the market would have changed again…
The truth is, the point is absolutely moot. I have this boat. I’m not selling this boat. I’m not buying another boat. And I have absolutely no way, based on the current information and my available time to determine if there is a better deal out there. Even if there is/was a better deal out there, it would make no difference to me – so my time is much, much better spent figuring out what else I need to buy/fix/install/maintain/learn, so that I can get my ass to the South Pacific.
On the other hand, I can say this: I was very ignorant getting into this. I have learned a ton. I don’t know if I would have purchased this boat if I knew then what I knew now. But with all things: motorcycles, dogs, girlfriends, trucks, real estate, etc – you often change your mind after you’ve lived with your decision. So – you live and you learn, and it’s only through the screwups that we really learn, me thinks.
Not to say this boat was a screwup. Though the previous owner did hide quite a bit from me, that I never would have let slip – were I looking now. But that’s pretty common too – some kind of minor/major deceit from a seller to the buyer. Thinking about it now, I’ve only ever heard complaining about previous owners. So, even if I were to have purchased a different boat – it’s highly likely that I would have uncovered some fairly serious issues as I sailed and repaired and maintained said boat.
This boat was beneficial for me for several reasons, but the largest is the amount of trial-by-fire experience I’ve gained. I can diagnose and fix problems on the fly that most boat owners can’t. I’ve learned specs, how to (and the importance of) actually measuring things. I can handle mechanical, plumbing, carpentry and electrical issues – all without freaking out. I can tell you the right solution to an SSB grounding problem, or fill your refrigeration system with the right freon (which I have onboard), or plumb and wire a wash down pump, or fix most problems on simple diesel engines. Want to talk electricity management? Water makers? I know where to buy the right gear and know how to decide what the right gear is. I still get stumped from time to time, but I know who to ask. I still screwup, but I fix those screwups. Overall, this confidence in and understanding of my onboard systems is super-important – especially considering what isn’t in the South Pacific (see: civilization). As far as purchasing a Lagoon 380 being a good decision? I don’t know. I’d love to sail faster, but I’d hate to have any more sensitivity to weight or give up any space. I’d love to have more waterline, but with more boat you have more expense as you upgrade/repair. I’m satisfied, usually, with the Lagoon 380. It’s the most popular sailing catamaran in the history of sailing catamarans. That says something.
There’s also an immense amount of gear that I would have purchased and installed regardless of the boat I purchased. And because I (arguably) paid less than market value on this particular boat, I was able to customize it and make it fit me without spending too much more than necessary.
There’s the argument that if I had bought a different boat, I may have had to replace less. That’s probably true, but then I’d be living with the mechanical/electrical decisions of another human with different goals. My boat is a reflection of the things I value and the way I want to live – which is the way it should be. And everything I replace is now new, meaning (in theory) it will be a while before I have to replace it again.
An example of the difference in priorities between boat owners is that I have a small marine diesel generator onboard that rarely works. But it’s wired and plumbed and sometimes it works. Most guys think that’s a problem when my genset doesn’t work. But most guys need a generator to supply their energy needs. It’s not a huge problem to me, because I installed a bunch of solar, with the correct wiring, on an arch that doesn’t get shaded and it all runs to an MPPT controller. The vast majority of my energy needs (like 99%) are supplied by the solar – which doesn’t burn diesel, doesn’t eat impellers, doesn’t overheat, and doesn’t make noise. It starts every morning when the sun comes up without me having to even leave my bed. I don’t “need” a generator. But another owner would probably have replaced this one, and passed on that cost to me – the buyer.
Here’s another example: Maybe another owner would have put a wind-generator onboard. They’re ugly, loud, and dangerous. They shade your solar. Oh, and they’re expensive. You can put up a ton more solar for the cost of a single POS wind-generator. It’s not pleasant having a yacht pull into your quiet, tranquil, anchorage with one of those noisy wind-generators. Or God forbid, two of those wind-generators. But sellers buy them, and then try to pass on the costs to buyers.
Did I get a good deal? I have absolutely no way of knowing that. If really pressed, I’d say that it’s close enough to a good deal that I don’t feel robbed. I’d also admit that if I had been more patient and more knowledgeable, I probably could have purchased something with a higher market value without putting in much more money. But if we all wait until we have all of the knowledge and we wait for the perfect deal… Well, we die. NOW has a monetary value too.
Because I know some people are going to be unhappy with this answer, allow me to explain this another way, outside of monetary or perceived value. Simply to illustrate how this “did you get a good deal” question serves to add no value. Here goes.
Most of the people who ask me this have a wife/husband. If asked by married man whether I got a good deal on my boat, I would respond with, “Did you get a good deal on your wife?”
Maybe there is a better wife for you out there. Maybe there’s one that works out more, or is a hellcat in the sack. Or younger. Maybe your better deal won Miss Alabama when she was 23. Maybe you’d even be able to stand your mother in law if you got a better deal. Maybe there’s one out there that can cook a mean lasagna. Maybe the best deal would have been the daughter of some oil tycoon and had a whole fleet of boats that she was just waiting to bequeath to someone. Someone like you.
Or maybe it’s a moot point. Because until you divorce this one (see: sell your boat), you’re not going to get another one. And we can all agree that divorce (selling your boat) is a messy and costly process. And the truth is – it’s really hard to know who you actually married (see: the shape of the boat you bought) without dating for a long time. The facades can take a while to break down.
In the boat world, you don’t get to date for two years before make the big decision. You’re lucky if you get a month. You may buy sight-unseen. You may only get to see your potential match once.
This kind of boat, for this kind of journey, is a long-term relationship. You buy the boat, then you fix/outfit it, then you go on your journey. You have to put in (too much) time, money, blood, sweat, and tears. And when you get to the point that you’ve purchased the boat – what is or is not a good deal makes absolutely no difference. In 90% of circumstances you’re stuck with what you have.
So, before you go and ask someone if they got a good deal on a boat… Think about whether you got a good deal on your significant other. Or if your kids are the “right” kids.
Afterall, maybe there’s a better deal out there. If only you’d waited and watched the market…
Lagoon 380 Rear Arch View
Lagoon 380 Arch Attachments
The dinghy engine lift is a handy contraption that I use very frequently, it’s attached to the upper part of the arch on my starboard side. It makes removing the outboard a one-person job and I don’t have to stress about dropping my outboard in the water. That’s a real concern in a rocky anchorage, shorthanded. And I love my outboard, so I’d likely be pretty unhappy if it went swimming. The lift swings out, I drop the block and tackle and then raise it and drop the outboard on the outboard holder-thing (the white piece of starboard).
Dinghy Engine LIft
Then there’s the fish-cleaning table, which is attached about belly-height on the portside of my arch. It folds out and is really solid – solid enough that I often attach a vise to it when I’m working. People have used it as a diving board, but that’s dumb. It’s in rough shape now as we’ve been working on other things and not worrying much about cosmetics. Check it.
Folding Fish Cleaning Table
Fish Cleaning Table Foldout
Lagoon 380 Rear Seating
Moving on, the rear seating. If anyone actually wants measurements, I can make that happen. Just lemme know. The first thing we did was remove the upper and lower lifelines off of the rear. The we moved the lower lifeline down a bit and made it a single stainless tube. Next, we decided on the height of the seating platform (also stainless tubing) and then figured out how to tie it all in. The goal was to tie the seating platform to the arch and the old davit system. We accomplished this, and I have to say I really like it. The seat is Starboard, which is a PITA to work with, but is solid and great in a marine environment. Finally we added cushions for both the lower lifelines and backrest of the seat, which in effect gives me two seating platforms with cushioned backrests.
Lagoon 380 Seating Rearview
Lagoon 380 rear seating
Old davits, new seating attachment
I would change two things about this design – I would slope the seat upward as it goes forward to create a natural incline keep everyone in the back of the seat. I would also hang the Starboard over the metal tubing on the bottom of the seat about two inches, giving a bit more seating surface area.
Lagoon 380 Davit System
The davits that come with the Lagoon 380 are, in my opinion, sub-par. They aren’t as strong as they could be, and they leave the dinghy relatively low over the water. To be fair, they do work – they just don’t work as well as they could. In addition, because of the way they hang between the hulls, you’re restricted in dinghy-length to what can fit between the hulls.
I fixed these problems with the new davits, but I didn’t tackle this project by choice. I tackled it after finding my new dinghy a little too long for the previous davit system. A matter of an inch or two.
The new system is better, stronger, higher, and it extends far enough over the rear of NOMAD that the dinghy does not come up between the hulls. That, in turn, allows you to put whatever length dinghy you want on the davits. Winning.
Again, the goal here was to tie the davit system into the existing stainless structures to make them all stronger. We succeeded. Of course it needed to be very, very strong as it is inevitable that I’ll end up smashing through rough seas with the dinghy on these davits…
Triangles are very strong shapes. We used them effectively to stabilize the davits both up and down, and left and right. Even when the dinghy (with the outboard on it) is swinging back and forth on the davits, it creates no movement on the davits themselves. In fact, you can now stand in the dinghy – a thing I wouldn’t have dared to do with the old system.
There are three main supports on each side of the davit system, and a top bar between each side. The long bar that extends at an angle downward actually connects to the remnants of my old davit system. It provides vertical and horizontal stabilization and is the thing that really tied the whole system together. Here’s a repeat pic, but it helps.
Lagoon 380 Seating Rearview
The only issue that I have with this system now is that I have to raise the dinghy very high, and tie it down very well to keep it from rocking when we catch a beam wave. This is more an issue of me being a bit lazy than it is a design flaw. All-in-all, I think the metalwork is done. And done well. Overall I can think of no downside, except that it wasn’t cheap and that it added weight. Alas, everything is a compromise. There are two things I would improve aesthetically too, but that’s for a later date.
Lagoon 380 Fuel Tank Inspection Port
In the next post I’ll outline all of the work I’ve done on the engines. Let me just say – they’re completely overhauled and are, in many ways, as good as new. They crank up, cold, without even making a complete revolution. For older diesel engines, this is great.
I kept having problems. With fuel. Over the last few months I’ve flushed the tanks twice, but it didn’t seem to make a difference. Every once in a while, usually when I’m pulling into a crowded anchorage, I’d lose an engine due to a clog in the fuel lines. My fuel filters were fine, and I have an additional electric fuel pump that helps move plenty of fuel – so it was a matter of fairly large crud blocking my intake lines (inside my tanks).
There are two fixes for this: 1) flush the tanks again and hope for the best 2) pull the tanks out, cut them open, clean them, and then weld an inspection port on the top of them so I can clean them and never, ever have to remove them again.
Being of the mindset that I would rather do things once and do them right, I chose what was behind door number two. This presented plenty of problems and some additional expense, but it was the right decision – of that I am completely sure.
The first step was getting the fuel out of the tanks. This isn’t fun, but we did it with a small 12V pump. Then we had to get the damn tanks out. Lagoon did an excellent job here, they made it very simple (compared to almost any other boat) to remove the fuel tanks. We had only to disconnect some hoses, remove a door and some paneling, and then do some angle-magic with the tanks to remove them. That is, though, where I stop giving Lagoon credit on the fuel tanks.
Lagoon 380 Fuel Tank Removal
ALL MARINE FUEL TANKS SHOULD HAVE (LARGE) INSPECTION PORTS. That’s a fact. I can’t understand, for the life of me, why anyone would make a marine fuel tank without a large inspection port allowing the user to see and clean the inside of the tank WITHOUT REMOVING THE FUEL TANKS.
We pulled the tanks and cleaned up the area around/under them.
Then the fun started. I needed to find the baffles (divisions in the tanks that keep the fuel from sloshing when you’re bouncing around at sea), and then center a large cutout over the baffle(s). Come to find out there is only one baffle in the tank, which is almost centered. I then needed to decide how large the cutout would need to be.
Of note here – you shouldn’t create any kind of inspection port with corners on it. Sharp corners are a point of failure and a point where the tanks will leak. A 2” radius corner is the minimum. So I created a template from some stiff paper, then centered it on the baffles on the tanks, then outlined it with a marker.
Then I taped the line I needed to cut with blue masking tape. This is almost mandatory for an amateur (like me) to keep straight lines. With this complete I drilled a hole near the line, and started cutting with a jigsaw. I broke one blade very quickly, but managed to do all of the other cutting without breaking another blade.
Lagoon 380 Fuel Tank Inspection Port
With the first tank cut open, I was very happy I made the decision to do this. Here’s what the inside of your diesel tanks should never look like. Incidentally, this is also what the inside of my diesel tanks looked like. Not cool and not my fault – but definitely my problem. 15 years of abuse led to this.
Lagoon 380 Fuel Tank Cutout
The next step is filing down the sides of the cutout so you don’t have to take a trip to the emergency room after cleaning the tanks. Next, we washed, scrubbed, and sanded the inside of the tanks until they shone. We literally polished them. It was nasty work that hurt one’s back, but we did it and did it well.
Then, with both tanks out, with both cutouts complete, and with both of them clean, we designed the inspection port. The top plate of the inspection port needed to screw down tightly, with a gasket to prevent leaking. That means we needed to weld a lip on the tank itself, then drill and tap some holes in said lip, then find and cut the gasket, etc.
Since I had plenty to do and I haven’t learned welding yet – I farmed this out. My welding guy is good. Really good. And though not cheap, he’s remarkably fair in his prices. Compared to anybody in The States – he is a bargain. I felt confident in his abilities so I sent the tanks home with him when he was done with my davit system.
He screwed the pooch on this one though. I guess you can’t expect perfection, but this was a disappointment.
I got the tanks back a little later than planned, that matters because I’m paying to keep the boat at a marina that I hate, staying on a friend’s boat, and my boat isn’t secure at this spot. But we got the tanks back.
When I got them back, I clearly asked if they had been cleaned inside. I was told they had. I asked the gent to open the inspection ports and show me. This is where everything went to shit. We used aluminum screws to prevent galvanic corrosion (something I’ll never do again, rather I’ll use stainless screws and coat them with a compound that prevents galvanic corrosion). The aluminum screws began falling apart. Before we had both tanks open we had four screws that were completely unusable.
The issue wasn’t really the screws though. The issue was the crappy job of drilling/tapping the top plate, the gasket, and the tanks. The holes just weren’t aligned. I called the welder, I wasn’t happy. He apologized and told me he was rushing to get them to me on time.
I was pissed, but that wasn’t helping so I settled in to the tedious task of retapping 40 different holes in the tanks. Of course, I’d never tapped a hole – but trial-by-fire has always worked for me and this was no exception. Then, of course, the tanks weren’t clean on the inside – so we cleaned them again. Then we had to install them. I had crew coming in the next day, so there was schedule pressure – but we got it done before 9PM, at which point we ate and immediately fell asleep.
The finished product wasn’t pretty, but it is very sturdy and very functional. The tanks can now be inspected, cleaned, and re-sealed all by removing a single floor panel (and the inspection port). In the future, this will be a quick job. Truthfully, though, I doubt I will have to clean the tanks again – I’m religious about using a Baja filter and the tanks are very, very clean right now.
Lagoon 380Fuel Tanks w/Inspection Port
Long story short? We (me and a couple specialists) kicked ass. The boat is in better shape than it’s ever been. I’m ready for a vacation. And I promise to update more when I’m not neck-deep in boat projects and treading water.
Until then, salud.
AB Inflatables Lammina 11 AL
The bad news is that after I got it out to the boat, because of the arrangement of my arch, the closeness of the hulls, and the design of the davit-system – this dinghy is very close to working in my current setup – but doesn’t. I could make it work, as is, but it would require two people to lift the damn thing – and that’s just not intelligent. There are many a time when I lift the dinghy alone.
This was heartbreaking, but could have been avoided. I’ve become fairly adept at kicking my own self in the ass. The real kicker is that I would now not be able to raise my dinghy at night. And there’s nothing more appealing than a brand-new dinghy and a brand-new Yamaha Enduro 15 – to the thieves in this part of the world. I was able to borrow a heavy chain to lock the dinghy to the mothership while I sorted out my davit issue.
AB Inflatables Lammina 11 AL
The davit issue was a real one. Even as I write this it’s not totally sorted. But we’ve made some progress and welding began on the solution already.
The solution was fairly apparent, but the devil is always, always in the details. Especially when you’re talking about welding heavy-duty stainless onto an existing structure in the hopes that it will not only lift your dinghy – but take shock loads when the dinghy is slamming around back there in bad weather. This had to be absolutely, totally correct. Overbuilt should be an understatement.
And since I’m having this done, I might as well correct another issue that was designed into the construction of the boat – a low-hanging davit system. A low hanging davit system can mean real trouble if you have a following sea and you catch a breaking wave, into your dinghy hanging on said davit system – that means the whole structure on the back of your boat get’s ripped off. You don’t just lose your dingy – you may very well lose your boat. A fairly serious concern.
I was lucky (?) in that I had an existing heavy-duty arch which I could add onto. That’s a big deal and most people don’t have this heavy-duty of an arch, especially on catamarans.
Since this needed to be 100% correct, I went into town, bought a 2×4 and cut it into two pieces. Then we mocked up what I thought would be the right solution and then I brought out the welder and other people smarter than me to help me with the solution. After an hour or so of playing with things, we came up with a rough idea of the materials needed and a sketch of the solution.
Then it was up to the welder. This guy is pretty damn good and I trust his instincts on welding and structural strength – he proved that to me when he strengthened my dinghy engine lift, my bimini support structure, and my additional seating on the rear of NOMAD. The welder made his measurements, gave me a quote, and we were off to the races. This was going to take some time and we needed to cut and weld and support and tie everything together and it couldn’t look like fit was designed by a kindergardener. It needed to look good (though I like the look of stainless on catamarans, almost without exception). Not a small job, not an inconsequential job – but we got it started.
So how did my dinghy buying go? Great. I have the dinghy that I want, it even has my boat-name on the side of it. It was delivered directly to Club Nautico, where I was anchored. I’m having a dinghy-cover made. The only issue is that I really, really opened up a bag of worms when I decided to increase the size of my dinghy. That was, though, a perfectly rational response to the problem I was presented with – an aging dinghy that had proved too small for my freediving/spearfishing/exploring/fishing.
The end-result of the dingy davit debacle is yet to be seen, but as soon as I figure it out – I’ll post up some pics and let you know how it went. I have high hopes, but these things rarely go as planned. After it’s all tied together, I’ll also take some pictures (maybe some video?) of the arch and davit system. I’ve had a couple of requests for this (sorry guys!) and will comply. Eventually.
The fiberglass and welding work was supposed to take 10 days, maximum. And before then I’d drawn sketches, figured out pricing, engaged the right guys, and paid half upfront – so they could buy the material. Staying in the marina was about $25/day and my hostel was about $15/day for a private room. Add to that the cost of eating out and the inevitable increase in consumption of alcohol that comes with wandering around CTG – and you can see how this would get expensive. It did get expensive, but it was nice to walk “home” through the plaza and see familiar faces and drink cheap beer and eat good hamburgers. Living on a boat while it is in project-mode sucks. It really, really sucks.
So when, as I suspected, the boat work ran over schedule – I decided to begin my next project without the other previous projects being completed yet. The next project was to clean the engine rooms, clean, sand, and scrape the engines, and then paint the engines and engine rooms. Not too difficult, but hot, filthy, and tedious. I enlisted the help of a local guy named Fernando, at the recommendation of a very good (and relatively new) friend in CTG – let’s call him Kyle. Kyle has some epic stories, and get’s most excited telling the ones where they ran contraband from the Bahamas to Florida, or his treasure hunting stories, or the stories about the long list of bands he did lighting and sound for. The list, printed on some very old and very yellow paper – contains all of the greats of the 70’s, 80’s and a couple from the 90’s. All of the greats, really. Kyle is an interesting, and very helpful, human being.
So Fernando and I were in the engine rooms. The process of making the engine rooms habitable wasn’t easy, but it was straightforward. We were repairing 15 years of abuse and trying to prevent any additional corrosion.
Here was the process:
- Clean the engine rooms in their entirety. Removing all water, all oil, all diesel, all dirt and grime.
- Scrape and peel the cheap soundproofing off of the bulkhead on the engine rooms, which was falling apart and causing a mess in the engine rooms.
- Clean the engine rooms again.
- Degrease the engines. (Simple Green, mineral spirits and gasoline)
- Scrape the peeling paint off of the engines.
- Pick and scrape and sand as much rust off of the engines as we could.
- Clean the engine rooms again.
- Apply another coat of Simple Green.
- Apply a coat of Ospho – a phosphoric acid compound that converts rust.
- Sand, pick, and scrape again.
- Clean the engine rooms again.
- Apply another coat of Ospho.
- Apply High-Heat Rustoleum to the engines in three coats, about twenty minutes apart.
Mind you, this was done on two engines. There were five days spent covered in grime and sweat, in cramped quarters, in tortuous heat, and without much of a break. There were plenty of harsh chemicals, and even some acid. It wasn’t fun. In fact, the only time I’ve sweated nearly as much was the time I spent in Iraq – walking around the desert with 100 pounds of gear and body armor. Regardless of how much water I drank, I simply couldn’t stay hydrated. In short – it sucked.
It took two of us five full days to clean, prep and paint the engines. In fact, it took so long that I ended up taking the boat back to Club Nautico without the engines being painted – but they were fully prepped.
So I was back in the anchorage in Club Nautico with most of the heavy-lifting done. What was supposed to take 10 days (giving a 3 day margin for error) took 15 days. And even then we weren’t finished.
The reason I was moored at said ratty marina (which was perfectly safe and reasonably priced): I was having my bimini fiberglassed, some deck-rot repaired, and having some welding done to add seating to the deck area. We took the bimini off in Club Nautico, so they could make a mold.
Removing Lagoon 380 bimini
NOMAD Sans Bimini
Previously on NOMAD the bimini was cloth. Cloth biminis are OK, but they have more than a couple of downsides. They chafe, they wear out, they get holes, they don’t retain their waterproofness, etc. And Sunbrella, the stuff we use to cover biminis is very expensive material. So when my cloth bimini started to go, I did some math and thought about how much I hate replacing things – and decided to splurge a bit and have it fiberglassed – which is a near-permanent solution when done correctly. The beauty of this is that I had complete say over what was done. So I was able to install a hatch so that I stand and put my head through the bimini to navigate if I needed to. I was also able to have the bimini constructed with a lip on it – so now I have a rainwater catch-system up 24/7. That’s a very, very important improvement. I could go into the details, but I’ll just show pictures and tell you that there were a million tiny things that we hadn’t quite thought of that came up along the way – despite having some pretty experienced and sharp people on the job.
Lagoon 380 fiberglass bimini
Lagoon 380 fiberglass bimini water catching spout
Lagoon 380 bimini water catching lip
Lagoon 380 bimini hatch
The deck rot wasn’t too serious, but did need to be repaired quickly. Deck rot is what happens when water gets in between the sandwich of fiberglass (it’s two pieces of fiberglass with a balsa core), from which the boat is constructed. In my case, the culprit was an improperly installed snap that a previous owner had installed on the deck. The snap allowed water to penetrate the fiberglass sandwich, and that caused the balsa core to rot. That made the deck soft and spongy, which is a problem. The longer you leave it, the worse the problem. I noticed it in San Blas but opted to leave it to CTG – where I could have a pro tackle the job. It’s another straightforward but tedious process. This was in a part of my deck that got a lot of traffic, so it needed to be done correctly and needed to look good.
Here’s what we did:
- Guessed how extensive the area of rot was by what was soft underfoot.
- Figured out how to cut the deck out (top or bottom) to make it look good and hide any lines that would be a result of cutting through the deck.
- Cut the top part of the deck out.
- Scraped the rotted core out.
- Used epoxy to completely fill the void.
- Replaced the cut-out and finished it so that it looked good. Really good.
Deck Rot Repair
Finally, the other thing that was being tackled was some additional seating on the back side of NOMAD. I wanted another seating area for parties and for when we sailed. The truth is that if you’re sailing, everyone wants to hang out outside. I’m running around trimming sails and tightening lines and checking fishing poles – and whoever else is onboard is typically relaxing on the back deck. That’s fine, but that puts them directly in my path when I’m moving from one side of the boat to the other. That doesn’t sound like a big deal, but when you’re in a hurry (for instance: tacking) – it’s a massive pain in the ass and adds a little friction to what should be a fun and enjoyable day sailing. I chose to remedy this by removing the rear lifelines, and welding a structure that extended out over my davit system with a bench-seat. Anyone sitting/laying/relaxing there is completely out of the way. And now I can fit more than 28 people onboard for a party 🙂
Lagoon 380 Additional Seating
There were a myriad of concerns in this process, but the end-goal was straightforward: tie all of the stainless structure at the rear of the boat together to add strength as well as seating. We didn’t get it right the first time, but we got close. Here’s a picture of the new structure, the seat itself was made from Starboard and attached to the stainless tubing with (wait for it…) zipties. I could have attached it with stainless fittings, but the truth about stainless is that it rusts in the marine environment. So I opted to go with plastic zipties and replace them every couple of years. Cheap, easy, and they don’t rust. The mistake we made is that we opted to use a piece of stainless tubing in place of the old lifelines, but this created a footrest for the bench that was uncomfortably high. So, after all was said and done, I had to take NOMAD back to the ratty marina and have the stainless cut off, moved down, and re-welded. Not the way I would have preferred to do things, but you don’t always get it right the first time.
That’s a small taste of the work going on on NOMAD right now. Just a taste. In the next few posts I’ll outline the projects completed and the projects left to be completed. The goal, right now, is to have NOMAD ready to cross the Pacific when she leaves port in Cartagena. No doubt, things will go wrong between CTG and my next port in The Pacific. No doubt. But I’ll be much more and better prepared and there will be fewer things falling apart around me. The value of doing less boat work, of having less moments of panic when things break, and of being confident in one’s yacht, cant’ be overstated.
The voyage across the Pacific isn’t one to be taken lightly and, if I can slow the monetary hemorrhaging that is boat ownership, it will take a couple of years.
At the resort we all started drinking the good stuff. I was into Johnny Walker Black Label at the time, so a few of those went down the hatch. By the time we actually arrived at our room I was half drunk and the pool was calling. A quick change a phone call to get my laundry started, and I was in the swim-up bar drinking.
To give you an idea of how strange that night got, I remember waking up to my roomie (Lilly) asking me what I was doing. When I came to, I was packing my clothes. Lilly told me, calmly, that we were there for a wedding – that I should go back to sleep. I did, all was well again in the world.
I woke up the next morning and wasn’t quite feeling like getting out of bed. So I didn’t. I laid in a very, very comfortable bed and watched movies and read until my room service got there. Best decision I made on the trip – trying out the room service. Everyone else was out at the pool before lunch drinking and getting sunburned. I viewed this as a rookie mistake. I rested, ate, relaxed.
At 2PM I was out at the pool, drink in hand. Several people were already plastered, which was certainly the goal, but it was a little early. They weren’t going to make it to dinner. I was right about that, we carried them upstairs a couple of hours before dinner. But me? I was great. Late starts allow late nights. The sun and alcohol and swim-up bars take their toll quickly, count on it.
Everything blurred together. But we managed to get a diving/fishing trip booked. Then I began being harassed by the local female population. You see, winter was ending in The States. That means very few people are: in shape, tanned, and have sun-bleached hair. And there is, apparently, something about the man-bun. According to my research in Costa Rica, girls really like the man-bun. Really like it.
As time progressed I found out about a flip-cup competition. Among many participants from many states and a couple of countries – I found myself placing second. Which is to say that I had to drink all of the alcohol the winner did, but I got no prize.
There was dinner. Then we went to resort-bar-thing. Then we went to a resort-club-thing.
We did this for a few days – drinking, eating, relaxing. Then we had a fishing/diving trip booked. Fun stuff. We caught what they were calling Spanish Mackerel. It wasn’t what I call Spanish Mackerel, but it was delicious. Sashimi on the boat was lunch. We did a bit of diving, but the water was cold, dark, and full of particulate. And our guides were fisherman, meaning they didn’t know any decent diving spots. After a few jellyfish stings, we abandoned diving and took to drinking and bullshitting and pulling lines with lures on them.
Fish for Sashimi
Then we were back at the resort and the resort chef was cooking our fish. I could get used to this. Coming from 30 second cold showers, waking up in a pool of my own sweat, and generally having to work twice as hard to do anything onboard NOMAD – this resort stuff was fun and easy.
The fish was excellent and we had enough that the guys from the wedding party went recruiting to find some talent to help us consume our meal. Then it was pool volleyball, flip cup, and more shenanigans.
Suddenly it was time for the wedding. I had no clothes, the bride-to-be had brought them for me from the States. I had no shoes. I had no socks. I had only board shorts and flip-flops and hair conditioner; the necessities. Although, I was running low on hair conditioner because my roomie, Lilly, had found out how good it was and was making a daily habit of stealing it and then telling me she had stolen it.
I was supposed to make a speech. I had no idea what I was going to say. But I’d been using it as leverage to try to get the groom, down to Colombia post-wedding. I thought if I threatened enough embarrassment, I’d get the green-light (from his bride-to-be) to have him down for a week of foolishness. It kinda worked, but I didn’t have a speech and it was wedding time.
As a matter of fact, I didn’t have socks and only 30 minutes before the wedding did I actually possess the clothing I was supposed to wear. Still no socks, but I borrowed some from my roomie. No practice, no mind-numbing rehearsal dinner, and a legitimate open-bar. This is how weddings are supposed to be. We were all winging it, and that’s how you have a wedding where nothing goes wrong – you don’t make it complex and you don’t choreograph it. If no one knows exactly what they are supposed to do, nobody can screw it up.
Now that I’ve seen a wedding done right, let’s riff on that.
The wedding was quick. We were taking shots until we actually walked down the isle and I had a couple mini-bar bottles of Red Label, for emergencies, tucked into my tux. Pictures were taken, a very quick speech was given, vows were exchanged, and we went back to drinking and celebrating. I can’t tell you what a relief that kind of wedding is, after sitting through twenty or so long, drawn out celebrations in overly elaborate churches or sweating profusely under a pecan tree. Why don’t we just party and call that a wedding and have everyone happy?
So, here are a Nomad’s wedding tips – I know you’re dying for them:
The priest/preacher can be quick – he has plenty of time to convert and preach his silliness on Sundays. There is no need for extravagance, save that money and do something worthwhile with it – like travel, start a business, change your life. I promise that having an expensive wedding won’t make you less likely to get divorced. Statistics tell you it actually works the opposite. So if you have a big, elaborate wedding, where everyone is sitting around uncomfortably for your special day – there are just going to be that many more people who witness your wedding turn into a divorce. Destination weddings are cool, and if you arrange it to have people there for a couple of days beforehand, everyone gets to know each other before the wedding – which makes it much more enjoyable. There needs to be an open bar – not having an open bar is like saying, “Please kill a weekend, spend a bunch of money on clothing, and drive/fly to come and hang out with a couple of your friends and a bunch of people you don’t know for too long. PS – I’m not going to even buy you a drink.” Don’t be those people. Small, quick, short, and then get back to why everyone is there: a celebration of a life-event.
Back to the story: we did the wedding, there were speeches, there was even some singing. Then we began removing clothing (it was very, very hot) and started dancing. Then we jumped in the pool. Then it became public knowledge that I was wearing green socks with my tux. Then it all got blurry for everyone and we went dancing at the resort-club-thing.
Post-Wedding Pool Fun
The next morning was another one of the usual: room-service, in the A/C, in the comfy bed until the afternoon.
After the wedding I was getting The Itch. It was time to get back to my boat. I missed her. Time to start boat work again. Time to wander around CTG with some cold beer and people-watch. Time to be back on the water. After a hellish travel day, I was back. And Disneyland and Amanda were still in CTG, despite threatening to leave for Panama, so that’s where I stayed my first night back. It was great coming back to familiar faces.
The boom swing
The bow flip
The bow flip 2
The side dive
The sugar scoop backflip
The sugar scoop backflip 2
The arch swing
The arch swing 2
The sugar scoop springboard dive
The sugar scoop springboard dive 2
The sugar scoop front flip
The sugar scoop front flip 2
After the research, we went for a dive. Nobody saw anything crazy, until the end of the dive where I saw a really nice Dog Snapper. Naturally he was on to me, and managed to escape with only a scare.
Post-dive we were all on the same page – let’s get to Cartagena.
So the next morning we woke up early, pulled up the dingy, and took off. The wind was very fickle and I quickly gave up resetting the sails every few minutes – choosing to drop sail and motor the remaining 20 miles. Pulling into Cartagena was cool.
Boca Chica Cartagena
Boca Chica again
NOMAD in CTG
To really grasp the impact it had on me and the crew – you have to consider that I hadn’t had S/V NOMAD anywhere near civilization during my entire time aboard. But now, I was motoring right into the middle of a fairly modern, historic, and friendly South American city. It was awesome and we were all really happy to be there.
There was about an hour of motoring once we got into the bay, to get to the area that we wanted to drop anchor. We were in no hurry, so I settled into the captain’s chair, watched the AIS, and fiddled with the autopilot to keep me entertained while I chose music to fit the mood.
Once close to Club Nautico (our anchorage), we putted around looking for a spot close to the dinghy dock. We dropped anchor in one spot, but eventually moved. Then at the second spot we dropped anchor we were a little close to a neighbor, but not close enough to bump. So I called it – we were officially in Cartagena.
Anchor Beer Cartagena
Now, we’d been saving beers for our traditional anchor-beer. In fact, our last three beers had been off limits since San Blas. The fact that they actually survived until Cartagena is a miracle, but they did – and an anchor beer has never tasted so good. Nor has it been so earned, on S/V NOMAD. The crew all did their jobs. The captain managed to not sink the boat. And we actually arrived where we wanted to, without having to stop and ask for directions. That’s a win in my book.
Things happen quickly in Cartagena. You make friends quickly. You find your way around quickly. People try to get your money quickly. Everything is fast, unless it comes to boat work or paperwork – in that case, it’s still manana-time.
So it wasn’t a huge surprise when we went ashore, found the main party street, found the main party hostel, had our first Colombian beer, paid for the dinghy dock access, went shopping, and checked into the country – all in the first two hours.
First Colombian Beer
Enter the Disney’s
On the way back to the marina I saw a familiar face chatting streetside. We’d first met Nick and Andrea Disney (whose name I didn’t remember at the time) at Australia Day in San Blas. My buddy Rob had a group of people over for drinks the night before, and Nick and Amanda were part of that group. We’d met briefly, seen each other at the party – and then Nick and Andrea had sold us some rum (they needed American Dollars, I needed rum). Fancy seeing them here, huh?
The introductions were short, I was tired and hoping to get back to the boat ASAP. But there was an invite for a beer aboard their boat, which was docked at the marina. We said yes, and thus began one of my favorite cruising friendships to date. Many a sweaty Cartagena night was spent with these fine folks.
The A Team
Of course the beers onboard Disneyland (our nickname for the Disney’s boat) led to some beers at a local bar. This bar had a pretty awesome band. We all enjoyed the music, the beer, and being in an actual bar. At this bar, we met Kevin and Pollo Brown. Kevin had a boat in the anchorage, Pollo Brown was the substitute guitarist. We enjoyed it so much that we felt it the next morning.
The next day we were being lazy. Nobody felt like doing much so we didn’t. I settled into a series on the computer and drank cold drinks to fend off the sweltering heat. We cooked a tiny bit, just enough that we wouldn’t starve.
About 3 PM Kevin rowed by and asked if he could use my kitchen to cook food for his birthday party (which was that night). I said yes. He took off again. About an hour later Amanda came back to the mothership with interesting news: there was a party onboard S/V NOMAD very soon. This was news to me.
When I inquired who was throwing the party on my boat, and what the occasion was, it was apparent that there had been a bit of miscommunication. In that miscommunication, the entire anchorage had been invited to Kevin’s birthday party – on my boat.
No problem. I rallied. The party was kicking off at 5 PM. It was 4. I had some work to do. I started hiding valuables, setting up cushions, and putting dirty clothes where they were supposed to be. Unfortunately I had to pause Deadwood.
About 5 PM people started showing up. By 7 PM there were 15 people onboard, most of which I didn’t know. Kevin showed up about 8 PM (late to his own party, on my boat) with two Israeli friends and started cooking hummus, pita bread, etc. At this point Pollo Brown and one of his friends showed up. Suddenly there were 22 people onboard, and the dinghies kept coming in. We had a date at a bar at 11PM, though.
Fiesta in CTG
Just one more…
There was a boatwide warning about 10 PM that we’d be leaving the boat (meaning the party needed to go elsewhere). By 11 PM it was more “you don’t have to go home, but you can’t stay here.” Even then, dinghies kept showing up for the party.
So we shut down the party, went to the bar, and watched some more music. We had so much fun, again, that we felt it the next day.
We’d accomplished alot in our first two days in Cartagena, including meeting half of the anchorage.
Clearing stuff up
Some quick notes, based on some recent feedback:
- I use “and” and “but” to start sentences often. I do it because I like to. I realize it’s not technically correct. But if we all only did things that were technically correct, it would be a very boring world. And I’m going to keep using “and” to start sentences (see what I did there?). And if you don’t like it, I’m sure there’s another sailor out there that writes more boring, technically correct stories. Find that guy/girl and read their stories to go to sleep 🙂
- I do know how to spell (despite evidence to the contrary). But writing takes time, editing takes more time, and posting takes even more time. That is to say, this all takes time away from sweating and bleeding in my engine rooms, which is where I should be right now. Please overlook the spelling errors, they are not intentional.
- I use punctuation incorrectly. That is (usually) purposeful. See bullet point number one regarding my general feelings about technically correct writing. Hint: it’s boring and lacks style.
- I often use fragments. I often use run-ons. Those are also done on purpose. See bullet point number one regarding my feelings about technically correct writing. Hint: it’s boring and lacks style.
- Cartagena is a very long word. I am tired of typing it. I now use CTG, which makes sense because it’s the airport abbreviation. I hope that doesn’t kill your buzz.
- On the shipwreck thing – there was a bit of drama following that whole ordeal. I’m opting to stay out of it, by not publishing it. That said, I did receive a couple of negative notes. To be clear: I received no financial compensation for helping. I asked for none, expected none, and that’s the way most sailors would treat other sailors. My crew and I helped because it was the right thing to do. But I did receive a gift from Hank, consisting of four blocks. I’m really happy with that gift as it gives me something to remember Hank and the shipwreck by.
- Here’s the official story regarding the shipwreck: The boat was a 2007 Beneteau OCEANIS 523. Hank was a very experienced sailor who knew his location to be 15 miles off the reef, who reduced sail, set the alarm and had a quick nap (it was night, he was singlehanding). The current pushed the yacht to shore. The yacht went right over the reef, keel and all, and fell onto its starboard side, sustaining most of the damage above the waterline. Eventually, post salvage, they floated the yacht off of the reef, repaired some holes and towed it back to where it sits today: Isla Linton. Special thanks to Rob (and Laurie, of course) for clearing up what was a murky situation and for looking after Hank.
So. With all that cleared up, I hope to be able to get back to regularly scheduled programming. Which is to say there’s still a (relatively) young, dumb gringo stumbling around CTG. And he’s still making bad decisions, then writing about them, purely for your entertainment.