Engine Paint Fail

Engine Paint Fail

Word to the wise:  don’t use that stuff.  It may be good for high-temp, light-duty stuff.  It is certainly not good for heavy-duty or marine use.  Rubbing that paint with a soapy rag removed the paint.  So about two months after the application of that paint, I decided to scrub and scrape it off the engines again.  A-freaking-gain.  

I reckon the third time’s the charm. 

The third time around I vowed to never, ever use a single-part paint on the boat again – at least not on anything I care about.  Single part paints just don’t cut it.  Single-part paints are for hobbyists.  This time around I wanted an epoxy-based paint.  The epoxy-based paints adhere well and provide a heavy-duty barrier that prevents corrosion.  Unfortunately epoxy-based paints don’t do very well in high-heat applications.  But with a bit of searching I found a local, epoxy-based paint that tolerated heat – a two part paint of course.

So we spent another two days on each engine – scraping and cleaning and repainting in The Sauna (the engine rooms).  Eventually we got it done.  Then we needed to replace the sound barrier in the engine rooms.  I searched and searched and finally found what I wanted – in the States.  Getting it here would be a problem though.  The cost and trouble of getting my hands on it, though, bordered on ridiculous. 

So.  I made the damn soundproofing.  It’s two parts:  one piece of a heavy lead or rubber sheeting that serves to absorb the sound/vibration and another piece of mylar-coated insulation.  Lead sheeting was near-impossible to find here, but I found a heavy rubber (gasket material) that turned out to be a great substitute.  The process sounds simple, but it took a week.  We  removed everything mounted on the bulkhead, cleaned the surface, glued the two parts together, cut it, fit it, glued it to the bulkhead, and then sealed all the edges with the right tape.  It turned out well and it cost a fifth of the commercially available products Stateside.  The real investment was time.  You can see the result, behind the fuel filter below. 

Griffin Filters

Griffin Filters

Next up was replacing my old-school Racor fuel filters with the turbine fuel filters from Griffin.  I opted to go with Griffin over Racor based solely on price.  In the words of a good friend:  Racor’s not the only game in town.  For the price of one turbine Racor fuel filter I got two Griffin’s from John at  For any and all fuel filter needs, these are my guys.  I added the vacuum gauges on top as a means of telling when I should replace the filters.  The vacuum gauges are a nice-to-have, not a must-have.  The turbine filters are a big upgrade over the twist-on Racors that I replaced, if only for ease of replacing the filter cartridge.  In addition I picked up 36 fuel filter cartridges – 36 of the new cartridges cost less than 6 of the old and occupy less space as well.  With freshly cleaned fuel tanks (and new inspection ports), properly treated fuel, and the new fuel-filtration system – I think the majority of my fuel problems are in the rearview. 

And that’s enough for today. 

Next up is the radar/transducer/GPS system installation.  New toys.  It’s just money, right?

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